The Day I Almost Got Deported

Today I thought I was going to have to leave the country. But even worse, I thought I'd have to spend some time locked up before I left. I haven't got my passport, and I can't get it because it's in a police station at Tsingdao (a city 600km away). I'm having my visa renewed, as my original 90day travel visa was up. You'd think they'd be pretty understanding of that situation, but man! did it take a lot of maneuvering and chatting. It was a bit of a harrowing experience, but luckily things seem to be alright now.

It began in the afternoon. I woke up around noon, and my roommates mentioned they wanted to go to the nearby pet market (until recently the largest in Beijing). I was intrigued, so got ready to go. The market is cool enough to deserve its own blog, which it will get soon. So we spent a couple of hours there, and around 3:30 I got a call from a local friend asking me where I was. I had forgotten that we had arranged to meet at my place at 3:00... I felt really bad and rushed home. Upon arriving at home, I met with Casper (bit of a funny name, but this guy is rock solid), and within not even five minutes I get a phone call. This time, from a friend of Brian, the guy whose room I'm renting out. Brian had asked this friend to help us whenever if we're ever in need. One of my roommates speaks mandarin, but he's Korean and doesn't always know the protocol of things in Beijing. Brian's friend began telling me that the police were talking to him and saying I have to move out or renew my temporary residence status. While I'm on the phone with him, I hear a firm knock at the door. Sure enough, it's the community watch (the people the police send to do smaller tasks... pesky people). Luckily for me, Casper is local and savvy, and knows how to deal with these people. The end result is that we have to head to the police station.

A bit of background: In Beijing, you need to have approval to live outside of certain (very limited) designated areas. The approval is easy to get, you just go to the police station with your passport and they give you a "temporary residence status" certificate. It expires on the day your visa does. I didn't even go to get mine, Brian took my passport and went with Casper. Convenient for me... at the time. From that point, I mistakenly thought that they were pretty lenient. I know better now.

When Casper and I arrived at the police station, the officer in charge of our area was near-infuriated. Though I couldn't understand him, I was told he threatened jail-time and deportation numerous times. He kept saying I should've come to the police station first, and that people were dispatched to my place to tell me that. I never received such a dispatch. Anyhow, though I didn't understand his words, his tones expressed enough to let me know to shut-up and look innocent and humble. After half an hour of discussion (ie. being preached to), he told us to follow him. We walked outside of the first building and were going around to the back. I couldn't help but think he was leading us to the jailhouse. But, luckily it was only the residential department. They have records for all people living in this vicinity, and foreigners get a special (mostly empty) shelf zone.

Further complications arose when they went into their system to verify whether or not my visa was being processed. I used an agency to extend my visa (since I was changing visa types, which you technically have to do from the chinese embassy in your home-country... or pay an agent). The agency has ties in Tsingdao, a coastal city 600km away from here. So, that's where my passport is. However, when processing it there, it doesn't show on the Beijing system. So, they couldn't verify whether or not it was being processed. On top of that, using an agency to extend visa's is illegal, and so I didn't want to admit to it for a while. Eventually the truth came out, and I was forgiven since I didn't know. The same officer who had threatened me then gave me his card and had the pesky community watch dispatched to my place to post a note of the police station phone numbers where I can reach him in case of any trouble. Casper was of immense help throughout all of this. I didn't speak a word of chinese the entire time... thinking it was better to play as ignorant a role as possible. I think my humble, innocent expression helped too, but there's no way to verify that.

All police signs here are adorned with a cartoon police officer. Ironic?

"Safety" in Beijing

When Beijing was fighting hard for their Olympic bid, one of their slogans was "Beijing: safety number one". It's clearly a joke, and anybody who spends more than 1wk here can see that safety is not a priority. They're leaps and bounds behind the west in terms of workplace safety, especially when it comes to protection against fumes and falling hazards.

I was at Wangfujing last week, on my way to a hospital to xray my sprained toe (short story: I kicked a curb), and I saw a demo team taking apart a building. I have been known for being a bit fearless and putting myself in unsafe positions (and having the occasional accident), but I would never work in these conditions.



Yesterday I visited a friends factory (yes, I've made friends with a factory owner). The factory produces fancy furniture. The carving part is pretty harmless, but what got to me was the varnishing. They spray the varnishes on in this one room, and all they wear are thin little cotton masks. Some people weren't even wearing their masks. I cringed a little, thinking about how they do the same job every day and don't have any protection whatsoever (and get paid pennies, but hey, this is China). What a place.

Forbidden City

The Forbidden City (Forbidden Palace, 紫禁城) lies in the center of the city. It is the hub around which the city has grown. It's walls are considered the first ring of the city, followed by subsequent rings. The rings beyond the palace have become major roads that encircle the city. I live adjacent to the 2nd ring road, and thus, not very far from the palace (10min bus ride). The 2nd ring road was once a wall itself, but it was demolished sometime during the mao-era to create a road system for the booming population. A few sections remain, like around Hepingmen.

So, why is it forbidden? Well, it's not, at least not anymore. The Forbidden City was opened to ordinary citizens in 1912. That year marks the end of the last dynasty, the Qing dynasty, and the year during which China abandoned monarchy and became a republic. Before then, the Forbidden City was the home of the emperor, the imperial throne of the country; a place of imperial business and personal affairs. The inner city was restricted to the emperor, his concubines, and over 1000 of his serving eunuchs. More on wikipedia.

Overall, I found the experience pretty mild. There was one massive tick against it to begin with: many of the major temples are being restored in time for the tourist surge the Olympics will no doubt cause. Also, it was a bit expensive for a something in China, 60Y entry fee, 15Y to see the extra part at Tian'anmen, and the snack prices were pretty exorbitant. I understand that this all translates to under $15, but I no longer convert to Canadian because it's too easy to spend too much that way.

The nicest part in my opinion is the imperial garden in the North-most section. Also, Jingshan park, directly North of the palace, was a nice highlight. The park was created with the soil that was excavated in order to create the moat that surrounds the entire complex, and the artificial lakes to the West of the palace grounds, Nanhai. At the top of the hill is a nice little temple with a good view of the city. I waited for a clear day to check out the temple and Jingshan park. Entry to the park was a lofty 2Y ($0.30)... I sometimes wonder why they charge in the first place. After a brisk upward walk, there's an excellent view of the city.

Beijing has a very different layout from most western cities. What one would think is the downtown, the central area of the city, is quite flat and full of hutongs (old-style Beijing neighbourhoods). The 2nd ring road is where everything grows. So, the skyscrapers form a ring around the city-centre. Anyway, the view was quite nice, it's the highest point in the city-centre, so you can see the ring growing all around.

The front of Tian'anmen (gate of Heavenly Peace). This is the south entrance to the Forbidden City.

Of course, there's still a huge portrait of Mao adorning the Gate of Heavenly Peace. Ironic? A bit...

The view while entering through Tian'anmen.

For an extra 15Y, I went up into the Tian'anmen building. It was well adorned. This is where the emperor used to receive criminals and give addresses.

The sign says "No photography please"... so I snuck this one.

The view from Tian'anmen, facing South, overlooking Tian'anmen Square.

You may have noticed this building on the right hand side of the above photo. It's the new national theatre, currently under construction. The locals call it the "big egg".

A zoom from on top of Tian'anmen. You can see the Monument to the People, in front of Mao's Mausoleum.

At the rear of Tian'anmen, looking North into the Forbidden City complex. The middle stucture is the next gate.

Cool statue I saw from the courtyard.

And the same statue from the rear of Tian'anmen.

A bridge within the complex.
These guys were dressed up on the 2nd gate, everyone was looking at them, surprised. Perhaps it's not every day that they dress up in imporial garb.
Some of the squares inside had a nice, rustic feel. It was cool to think of all the officials and historical figures who may have helped to wear down these stones by just walking on them.

A cool, original cauldron.
Safety number one! This was one of China's slogans for the Olympics, they're quite clearly full of it.

There was grass growing on these yellow-tiled roofs.

A cool relief carving. (damn railing shadow)

This is sort of the highlight of the entire complex, and as you can see, the main temple is fully covered with scaffolding. It was quite a let-down.

This is the largest single stone carving in the world. The stone was transported to the palace by pouring water to make an ice-path in the dead of winter, and then gliding it along. It took 10,000 men 3 months to move.

This was a particularly popular venue. This was the empresses quarters. Apparently, one famous empress hanged herself from a beam in this room sometime in the 16th century.

The entrance to the imperial gardens.

This is the view from the North exit of the palace. In the distance is Jingshan, my next destination.

Looking North from the peak of Jingshan. A cool contrast of old vs. new.

This is the Northwest guard station of the Forbidden City, as seen from Jingshan.

The EGG, from Jingshan.

A look over the Forbidden City.

The other people looking with me. The view N and NE from Jingshan.

The view E and SE from Jingshan.