Monday, February 19, 2007

Ah luhvs m'gun, luuhhvs m'gun! (aka. da'AK)

I had heard from a few people that there was a firing range somewhere near Beijing at which you can fire all sorts of cool guns, including anti-aircraft, anti-tank, rocket launchers and the like. Well, the rumours were partly true, though not quite as exotic as I initially believed. Jason, an Australian kungfu master (!), was particulary interested in firing an AK-47, and after hearing him talk about it for a while (0.5 seconds) I got the bug, if only just to be able to say I've fired an automatic weapon.

Finding information about the firing range was another thing. Neither of the 2 guide books I brought had anything about it, and an internet search proved quite nearly futile. Luckily, Jason had lunch with a friend who knew all about it, not only where it was, but also the most economical way to get there, and he wrote the address in english and chinese, in case the cabbie's Beijinghua (Beijing accent) was too far gone to understand my perfect mandarin. haha.

Anyway, we set out early on the morning of February 19th. I met him and a student of his, David, at Dongzhimen subway station. At 8am. It was a bit tough for me to get up at 7ish, especially after having come home at 3ish, but my excitement drove me forward.

We went to the Deshengmen bus station, near Jishuitan subway station, which, conveniently, is closed now for construction. This meant we had to walk from the neighbouring subway station. The walk turned out to be quite pleasant, and gave a good view of the Deshengmen bus station. Normally, a view of a bus station would not be something considered pleasant, but this one is particularly interesting, since Deshengmen is an old gulou (meaning drum tower). It was built in 1440, and was a very important gate along the inner-city 2nd ring wall (now gone), opening up to paths leading to the a historically important section of the great wall (badaling pass). It was a nice surprise.

A river near Jishuitan

This guy had the unfortunate job of cleaning it from the side. The lighting in this picture doesn't really give a good impression of how futile it seemed.


It's the year of the pig!

Yeah... something about a fish from those waters doesn't seem appealing to me.

I had to sidle close enough to take this picture.

Deshengmen watchtower


The bus ride was 45min long each way, and the return ticket cost 12Y (about $2CAD). Bus-rides here are cheap. The bus we took, the 919, also goes to the badaling portion of the great wall, and the city we were destined for, Nankou, is on the way. We were sitting at the very back of the bus, which was packed to capacity (or beyond), and when we arrived in Nankou we had to snake our way to the front, through all the locals going to the great wall. This deboarding took a good 5min. And when we got to the front, the ticket-lady wouldn't let us get off, taking us for dumb foreigners who thought we were already at the wall. Jason and David, in front of me, seemed complacent, and when I determined what the hold up was, I let out my american-side; I yelled to let us off the damn bus. Two years of studying paid off a bit right there.



We got ripped on the taxi-ride. We weren't sure exactly how far outside of Nankou it was, I had read somewhere that it was 6km west but really didn't trust the source too much. A 5min taxi ride there cost us 20Y ($3), 50% more than the 1.5hr return bus ride. I wasn't so foolish on the way back to Nankou, which we got back to for 5Y. You actually have to bargain down EVERYTHING here, and the moment you let your guard down, BOOM, you've been ripped. There was a "Firing Range Registration" at the main gate, but we didn't have to register, or even give anybody our names the entire time. The range was here.

My first impression of the range was pure awe. They have a room in which they display something like a hundred different guns, modern, historical, handguns, sniper rifles, semis and automatics. A woman asks you to choose which guns you want to fire and how many clips. I learned soon enough that not all on display were available, that could choose from about a third of them... still plenty though. As well, we couldn't choose the rocket launcher or anti-aircraft gun, but I imagine if we could they'd have been too expensive anyway. There was an anti-tank gun set up somewhere, but the price began at 1000Y for 10rounds ($150CAD). They charge by the bullet, and based on chinese standards, it was quite expensive. The price of a round ranged from 8-12Y each, and you have to get a whole clip (I guess that's obvious). Since we were going mostly for the experience, and didn't wield particularly fat wallets, we shared a clip for each of the 3 guns we chose: the AK-47 (240Y for 30rounds), a 5.8mm american sniper rifle (120Y for 10 rounds), and a 9mm chinese military handgun (180 for 15 rounds). Total cost for firing three clips in three guns, 540Y ($75CAD), split three ways. $25 got me 20 bullets.

Unfortunately, they didn't let me bring my cameras into the firing zone. It sucks, I know. We desperately wanted pictures of ourselves wielding AK's in Rambo fashion (or war-torn-Africa fashion). However, I'll do my best to describe it. First of all, it was a beautiful and clear day, very unusual for the Beijing area. The mountains are very near, and you could not only see them well, but you could see many portions of the great wall (not the badaling section, I'm not entirely sure which section it was). If we wanted to, we could've fired at it.

The firing range is partly-indoors, with sliding doors leading to the firing groove (okay, so I don't know all the technical terms for a firing range). The firing groove is open in the front, but covered overtop. The targets are about 15m away, and behind them are large mounds of sand, and behind those, a few km away, the mountains and the wall. When it was our turn to shoot, we pass through the sliding doors, put on ear-muffs (but no eye protection), and they then sit you down on the table. I was manhandled into the right position, probably the most I've been pushed around in China yet. The gun, which was the sniper rifle first, is ready and on the table, with the end of the muzzle resting on a support-type thing. There were about 7 guys (and a woman) standing around watching me fire. If someone wanted to turn around and go buck wild on everybody, they probably wouldn't get very far with 8 ppl so close-by. The targets were brought in after each person's firing.

The sniper rifle was difficult to aim, and I actually had better aim with the AK despite the lack of 10x zoom. There was barely any kickback with the sniper rifle, and the AK was quite manageable. It's a semi-automatic, and you just know I had to hold down the trigger to let off a few in a row. This probably negatively impacted my score, but I didn't care. The handgun was fired in a different portion of the range, set up for standing-fire instead of sitting. For the handgun, the target was closer, and I did much more poorly. Those western's are full of crap.

Prebattle

What a tease












We fired the top-most sniper rifle, 5.8mm.

The AK-47 is second down from the top.


The handgun we fired is on the right-most column, middle row.



Another tease, it wasn't even loaded.


After our trigger-happy morning, we returned to Beijing. Jason, who was bound to return to Australia in a few days, had been trying to see Mao's mausoleum for a couple of weeks now. Mao Zedong (or old-style translation, Tsetung) died of Parkinson's on Sept.9, 1976. At the time of his death, a hasty decision led to his body being pumped full of formaldehyde in order to be preserved. Funny thing is that too much liquid was used, and his face swelled up and became distorted. Fortunately, when the liquid was drained his face returned to its original shape. Now, his body rests in a mausoleum on the south end of Tian'anmen square, and is open to the public at very strange hours. Three times Jason had gone to see it, and each time it was closed, despite him being present during the hours posted outside of the mausoleum. Nothing in China is convenient, and predictably the 4th time was no charm. A brief chat with the military-outfit at the gate didn't help me to understand exactly why it was closed, but to expect explanations here is near-treason.


Not sure what this building is, but it's pretty grande.

By this point it was 2:30, and we had become hungry. South of Tian'anmen is an old gate area called Qianmen (rear gate). Next to it, running E-W, is an old hutong (literally translates to alley or laneway). Hutong's are spoken of much here. In the not-too-distant past, Beijing used to be made up entirely of hutongs, narrow roads that wound about haphazardly. Most of the old hutongs in Beijing are being bulldozed to make way for modern development, and the Beijing of today has mostly wide and cardinal roads (NS, EW, much like Toronto). The Qianmen hutongs are being kept though, supposedly, since they are considered a protected cultural location.

Qianmen on the right, old empirial theatre on left, as seen from here.

Jason. Looks like a nice guy... until he uses some ancient shaolin dragon kungfu technique that splits you in two.

The hutong was relatively wide, and full of restaurants. The odd thing about the restaurants though was that most had signs with a character I couldn't quite remember, some type of meat I didn't recognize immediately. I'd studied it at some point, but had since forgotten. It wasn't until I asked a local how to pronounce it did I realize that they were all offering meals using dog meat. I wasn't shocked because it was dog. I'll say this very clearly, we kill many intelligent animals for their meat, I don't see why dogs should be any exception. I was shocked because dog meat is not typically found in Beijing, it's much more common in NE and South China. Although I was very tempted to try a dog meal, we ended up at a little dumpling restaurant. The three of us ate dumplings, gongbao (kungpow) chicken, and rice, as well as drank a few beers and some green tea, all for 33Y ($5CAD). Mmmm.

The hutong houses use these charcoal bricks to cook their food. Spent ones become beige.

The first character to the right of the dish is 'dog'. I didn't think the meal looked like dog though, since the bones are kind of small. I guess they use small dogs.

View of the hutong from near where we ate. Of course, firecrackers being lit off.

And the long day at last came to an end.

Sunday, February 18, 2007

Chinese New Years

So, I didn't take any pictures or videos during New Years because my camera died on me. Yep. I forgot to charge it, and I'm so upset that I can't share, in video form, the total chaos that became of this city. At least, not my perspective of it. I managed to acquire a few vids from my friends camera, and will try to get those up. Google video is blocked in China, so I'll use youtube.

The Chinese New Year is based on an a very ancient Chinese lunar calendar. This year, the new year fell on February 18th. This marks the end of the year of the dog, and the beginning of the year of the pig. There are pigs everywhere, it's cute.

To try to describe the event in words is challenging. I've said it already, and I'll say it again, it was Armageddon. Think 4th of July, but way more people, and fireworks are cheap and very very widely available. You can find fireworks for sale on almost any corner of the street, and they include types of fireworks that can only be used by licenced pros in Canada. Very safe, right? Apparently, in Beijing, there were 2 deaths and 300 hospitalizations on New Years eve due to fireworks accidents. I know in a population of 15million, that's a very untimidating percentage, but if the same percentage were reduced to Toronto, that would be like 100 hospitalizations and a near-death... and the fallout from that would be severe. Pretty much, they would never allow such widespread usage of powerful fireworks in the western world. But here, aha!

Despite the danger, the display was absolutely amazing. First, a bit of background, which may help to explain why Chinese are pyromaniacs. Firstly, Chinese invented explosives sometime in the 11th century (thanks Encarta), which led to the development of fireworks soonafter. This is well known here and considered an issue of national pride. So, to love fireworks is to love your country. Secondly, fireworks were banned for many years, and only last year did they allow its use in public places. The Chinese had a lot of pent-up anxiety about its use. So, when the practice was made legal once more, people here went all out.

Using fireworks had been legal for most Chinese people's childhood, and so the reinstatement really, really brought the kid out of everyone. Men (and it's almost exclusively men who "play" with them) gather in large groups and light off firecrackers all day long. I remember lighting M40's in newspaper boxes in grade 9. At night, all the families come out of their homes and gather in intermittent groups everywhere in the city, lighting firework after firework.

As a funny sidenote, I noticed that many women here were pretty scared of them, especially the groups of guys lighting off firecrackers. The firecrackers come in strings, and not all will ignite. So, some are left lying around. Kids run around and look for unignited firecrackers and light them off. They can be heard, literally, all day long, never more than 5 minutes pass without hearing a crackle or pop (and occasionally a snap too). Also, sometimes they ignite on their own while just lying around. Many times I witnessed women nearly running past zones which had been used for lighting firecrackers. And on top of that, all mothers become very worried about their children. Safety practices here are, well... lacking. So, overall, the women become a bit tense, and the men all turn into children.

Overall, I was amazed to see fireworks spouting out from every facet of the city. Everywhere. The smell of gunpowder is prevalent for many days. People here are allowed to light off fireworks for 15 days following the New Year, then it becomes illegal. Tomorrow is day 15, and I expect there will be a lot of last minute fireworks displays, and some cheap fireworks to be bought.





This is what nearly every corner of the city looks like every morning before people clean it up. It's firecracker remnants.

Wednesday, February 14, 2007

Temple of Heaven (天坛)

I'm a bit behind in the blogging, but I still intend to post events in order. On the 14th, I went to the Temple of Heaven in Beijing. With me were two Australian guys, one is a Kung-Fu master who came to Beijing to do a television performance, and the other is one of his students from down under.

The temple of heaven is a large park in the south end of the city [google-map], with two actual temples and a large mound on the southernmost-end. The most interesting aspect of the temples is that they are made of large wooden sections affixed together without the use of any nails. It was built in the 15th century, as a sacrificial temple. They sacrificed animals, not humans, as far as I know. The three items are lined up in a NS direction, and are connected by a long raised stone road, called the Sacred Way Bridge. This web page has some good additional info.

The temples were quite nice, worth seeing. The central temple is enclosed in a near-perfectly circular wall, called the Echo Wall. Supposedly, you can hear someone whispering from one side to the other, but all I experienced was a bunch of yelling kids.

Almost more impressive than the temples were the grounds, a large expanse of symmetrical trees, many cypress, eucalyptus, and other fancy and old species. There were a whole slew of locals there playing mahjongg, cards and music. I doubt they had to pay 30kuai to enter the park...

After leaving the temple, we visited the HongQiao Pearl Market, just down the street. The 3rd floor displayed more pearls than I've ever seen in my life. Think of a floor in the Eaton Centre, packed with 2x2m stalls displaying hundreds of pearl necklaces and jewellery each. Madness. Apparently, you can get really good prices for pearls there, but that didn't interest me much. More interesting was the 1st floor, with electronics. We talked down an 8gb flash card from 400Y to 75Y (6.5Y=1CAD, so from $60 to $12). The sucky thing about it was that it's usb1.1, though it says usb2.0, so it's essentially useless since it takes a little over 1.5hr to fill it. We were still proud to have bargained down the ripoff so well.

Our next destination was the Silk Road market. On our way there, we passed by an old section of one of the walls that used to surround Beijing, the former second ring wall. One section was left intact, the rest of the walls were all torn down during the Mao era to make room for roads and to make the inner city less elite. The Silk Road Market is an even large market with more clothing and trinkets. It's a very famous foreigner destination here. The prices were higher, and the haggling less-fierce, so overall, not as good as the Pearl Market.

To end the day, we went to a Subway to eat. It was pretty good, unlike the Pizza Huts here (Chinese don't know from cheese!). A 12' melt was 32Y, which is about $5CAD. Next door they had milkshakes for 25Y, quite a rip for a bit of ice cream but they did look quite tasty.


Pan shot of the main temple.
No doing anything of any kind! Seriously!
A walkway.
Eavestrough spout.
The "Long Corridor", which may as well be called the "Old Chinese People Gambling Corridor"
Clay rooftops, I love them!
Dragon-pattern marble carvings found all over the temple grounds.
The Temple of Heaven.
Inside the temple. Such intricate paint-work. I didn't realize paint could last so many centuries! Jk, they repainted it all just recently, and they hired top-notch painters who spent 4 months repainting this temple alone, using tiny brushes.
A cauldron.
Apparently I like this cauldron.
Temple from the lower platform.

Temple behind its gate, from the Sacred Way Bridge.
BIRDS in BEIJING! I had to take a picture.
Eucalyptus trees.


From the raised altar on the south end of the complex. Don't you expect to Raiden to come flying out of the temple?

They coated these trees with this browny-clay stuff, perhaps a method of disease or infestation prevention.

A beautiful, old and gnarled tree.
Long corridor on right, facing the main temple.
Haha!
The aptly named "Animal Killing Pavillion" was closed. Unfortunately, no sacrifices were witnessed.
The Pearl Market, facing South.
This guy tried really hard to sell me this kite. Instead, I just took a picture of it.
The old wall 2nd ring wall.
It was cracking, could use some restoration!