Monday, April 2, 2007

Forbidden City

The Forbidden City (Forbidden Palace, 紫禁城) lies in the center of the city. It is the hub around which the city has grown. It's walls are considered the first ring of the city, followed by subsequent rings. The rings beyond the palace have become major roads that encircle the city. I live adjacent to the 2nd ring road, and thus, not very far from the palace (10min bus ride). The 2nd ring road was once a wall itself, but it was demolished sometime during the mao-era to create a road system for the booming population. A few sections remain, like around Hepingmen.

So, why is it forbidden? Well, it's not, at least not anymore. The Forbidden City was opened to ordinary citizens in 1912. That year marks the end of the last dynasty, the Qing dynasty, and the year during which China abandoned monarchy and became a republic. Before then, the Forbidden City was the home of the emperor, the imperial throne of the country; a place of imperial business and personal affairs. The inner city was restricted to the emperor, his concubines, and over 1000 of his serving eunuchs. More on wikipedia.

Overall, I found the experience pretty mild. There was one massive tick against it to begin with: many of the major temples are being restored in time for the tourist surge the Olympics will no doubt cause. Also, it was a bit expensive for a something in China, 60Y entry fee, 15Y to see the extra part at Tian'anmen, and the snack prices were pretty exorbitant. I understand that this all translates to under $15, but I no longer convert to Canadian because it's too easy to spend too much that way.

The nicest part in my opinion is the imperial garden in the North-most section. Also, Jingshan park, directly North of the palace, was a nice highlight. The park was created with the soil that was excavated in order to create the moat that surrounds the entire complex, and the artificial lakes to the West of the palace grounds, Nanhai. At the top of the hill is a nice little temple with a good view of the city. I waited for a clear day to check out the temple and Jingshan park. Entry to the park was a lofty 2Y ($0.30)... I sometimes wonder why they charge in the first place. After a brisk upward walk, there's an excellent view of the city.

Beijing has a very different layout from most western cities. What one would think is the downtown, the central area of the city, is quite flat and full of hutongs (old-style Beijing neighbourhoods). The 2nd ring road is where everything grows. So, the skyscrapers form a ring around the city-centre. Anyway, the view was quite nice, it's the highest point in the city-centre, so you can see the ring growing all around.

The front of Tian'anmen (gate of Heavenly Peace). This is the south entrance to the Forbidden City.

Of course, there's still a huge portrait of Mao adorning the Gate of Heavenly Peace. Ironic? A bit...

The view while entering through Tian'anmen.

For an extra 15Y, I went up into the Tian'anmen building. It was well adorned. This is where the emperor used to receive criminals and give addresses.

The sign says "No photography please"... so I snuck this one.


The view from Tian'anmen, facing South, overlooking Tian'anmen Square.

You may have noticed this building on the right hand side of the above photo. It's the new national theatre, currently under construction. The locals call it the "big egg".


A zoom from on top of Tian'anmen. You can see the Monument to the People, in front of Mao's Mausoleum.


At the rear of Tian'anmen, looking North into the Forbidden City complex. The middle stucture is the next gate.


Cool statue I saw from the courtyard.

And the same statue from the rear of Tian'anmen.

A bridge within the complex.
These guys were dressed up on the 2nd gate, everyone was looking at them, surprised. Perhaps it's not every day that they dress up in imporial garb.
Some of the squares inside had a nice, rustic feel. It was cool to think of all the officials and historical figures who may have helped to wear down these stones by just walking on them.


A cool, original cauldron.
Safety number one! This was one of China's slogans for the Olympics, they're quite clearly full of it.



There was grass growing on these yellow-tiled roofs.

A cool relief carving. (damn railing shadow)

This is sort of the highlight of the entire complex, and as you can see, the main temple is fully covered with scaffolding. It was quite a let-down.

This is the largest single stone carving in the world. The stone was transported to the palace by pouring water to make an ice-path in the dead of winter, and then gliding it along. It took 10,000 men 3 months to move.

This was a particularly popular venue. This was the empresses quarters. Apparently, one famous empress hanged herself from a beam in this room sometime in the 16th century.




The entrance to the imperial gardens.



This is the view from the North exit of the palace. In the distance is Jingshan, my next destination.


Looking North from the peak of Jingshan. A cool contrast of old vs. new.

This is the Northwest guard station of the Forbidden City, as seen from Jingshan.

The EGG, from Jingshan.

A look over the Forbidden City.


The other people looking with me. The view N and NE from Jingshan.
The view E and SE from Jingshan.

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